Battambang, Cambodia

Battambang is one of Cambodia's largest cities, but you wouldn't know it while visiting. It feels like a busy small town lacking an urban core. In fact, tuk tuk drivers make their living driving visitors to various sights at least 15km away.

As soon as my bus from Phnom Penh pulled into the station, swarms of men surrounded the door and starting shouting at various passengers. "Hello lady! Where are you going? You have tuk tuk? You have place to stay? I know a good place let me take you. Where you from? Hello lady? Come with me! Please! I know a good place to stay. You have reservation? Want to see Battambang? Want to see Killing Caves? You have tuk tuk lady?"

They stand strategically by the bag department of the bus so there's no escape. I randomly picked somebody, got a room and my things settled, and went off into the countryside.

The countryside is Battambang's main draw. The scenery through rural villages and farmland is stunning. Fields of green and brown rice paddies are broken up by palm trees and stilted houses. First I visited the "bamboo train." Colonial Cambodia used to have a train network stretching from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang and more. Years ago it was closed for repairs and villages were cut off from a basic supply line. To adapt, they slapped a bamboo platform on two wheeled axels driven by a small motor & belt system. Wa-la: a bamboo train now turned kitschy tourist attraction. I'll take it!

We hurtled down decades old metal tracks that twisted with the intense heat. Butterflies dodged in front and ducked away, playing in the currents. The wind swept the hot air from the neighboring fields into our faces; the sweltering breeze reminded me of the Los Angeles Santa Anas.

After about 7km we pulled over into a 'station,' or small village. Immediately children swarmed me with gift jewelry from palm leaves and numerous questions. I had the best time playing with them, and they taught me so much Khmer. I can now count to up to 10,000 and hold the basic what is your name/how are you conversation. I can't wait to bring these phrases to Cambodia Town in LB!

After the bamboo train I visited the killing caves. During the Khmer Rouge genocide (1975-1979) prisoners/civilians were struck on the head & tossed 30m into a cave to die. A neighboring temple was converted to a prison. Now the temple is being remade with beautiful paintings donated by visitors & buddhists as a place of hope. The cave has been opened up and two glass cabinets were installed to house some small portion of the bones recovered from the area.

A 17 year old kid acted as guide, explaining the site. It would take an essay to articulate my feelings, but something about this boy repeating this horrible history over and over again for a few bucks from tourists got to me. Once, he followed my gaze up to the opening of the cave and remarked, "it's very sad, isn't it?" I started to tear up. English, Khmer... No language can adequately sum up the tragedy - least of all with the phrase 'very sad.' It doesn't even come close, but that's all the boy had in his vocabulary to repeat over and over.

I ended the night with hope at a NGO run children's circus. These kids were absolutely fantastic, and it was the most fun I've had in an 'entertainment' setting for a long time. Tumbling, contortion, tight rope, juggling, dancing... All of it had me on the edge of my seat and wanting more.

The next morning I set off 11km by bicycle to visit a ruined temple from Angkor times. Kids absolutely adored seeing me pass by and I can't count how many times folks shouted "hello!" One group of boys on bicycles caught up to me and amused themselves by asking questions in English. "hello! What is your name? Where are you from? How old are you? Are you married? Where are you going?" Everytime I asked the question back though the little boy would blush and get nervous - so cute!

In the afternoon I went by motorbike back south to see another old ruined temple. After I explained to my driver (Bernie!) what I wanted, he took me through villages and farmland. We pulled over by a field on the riverbanks, where Bernie pointed out each crop. I saw chillies, pumpkins, watermelons, sweet potatoes, corn, morning glory (green vegetable), and to top it off, folks were spreading out a fishing net while we were there. So. Cool. Then a quick stop at Cambodia's only winery (California has nothing to worry about) and the temple!

Bed never felt so good.

Phew - A lot of words for this post. I'm having fun telling stories versus just updates. I hope y'all don't mind!

Lots of love from the land of Angkor,
Katie