More pictures from Angkor

Angkor and Siem Reap

This is a story best told in pictures, and yet no photograph can capture the immensity.

I bent my body backwards, twisted from the ground, angled towards the trees, and I had no luck. Anthony Bourdain once remarked that Angkor Wat caused him to give up taking travel pictures over ten years ago.

Of course, he has a camera crew following him whereever he goes. Cheater. You guys just have me, my iPhone, and my little Kodak point & shoot.

sorry.

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In words:
I met my grumpy tuk tuk driver at 5am. We headed in the pitch black just a few kilometers north of the city and he dumped me out by a food cart. Coffee and croissant in hand, I follow flashlights and the sound of others murmuring in the darkness up stairs and across some uneven walkway. I can barely make out the outline of some building before we cross in and out. This next walkway stretches forever and with a chill I notice the famous sillihouette. Crowds are all around me now and we move as one over to some lake waiting for the sunrise. Folks laugh nervously and others complain about the early time. I munch on my croissant and feel like complaining about my bad coffee.

The sun shyly hides behind clouds as she stirs awake. Light slowly spreads across the fields. Angkor Wat gradually brightens before our eyes while people fiddle with their tripod and guidebooks.

By 6am I'm convinced the sun has denied us a glamorous show, so I break away from the crowd and head into the temple. It's unbelievably quiet and only three or four people follow me inside.

What can be said that hasn't been said before? I'm standing alone in the middle of the world's largest religious monument. I'm staring at the remnants of a civilization that I knew nothing about before I came to Asia. Apsaras stare back at me from every corner. How did I not know the word Apsara before I came here? Or Shiva? Or Ganesha?

I knew -of- Hinduism and Buddhism, but I didn't know they inspired art and buildings like this. In hindsight it seems obvious. I guess two decades of staring at Christian iconography in cathedrals and museums left me somewhat narrow minded in scope and imagination.

There's something else you should know. It's not just Angkor Wat. There's a huge complex of ancient ruins spanning 881-1218 AD. I saw next Angkor Thom (1190-1218), the name for another capital city walled in. The main temple known as Bayon features hundreds of gigantic king faces staring down at you. There's a large 'elephant terrace' and 'leper king terrace' with meticulous bas reliefs leading to the royal palace. Then I visited Ta Prohm (1186), also known as 'tree temple' or tomb raider temple. It was left in its original condition after 'discovery' by the French, and now enormous silk cotton trees infiltrate the walls and ceilings. It's magnificent. The afternoon ended with Thomannon and Chau Say Teuda.

The next morning we drove 30km out to see Banteay Srei (967), built for not a king but a Brahamin. It's a small temple of gorgeously carved pink sandstone. Just north of there is Kbai Spean, or river of a thousand lingas. My driver joined me for the scenic 1.5km hike up a jungle covered mountain. A stream washes over carvings of lingas and other depictions of gods. (this visit was a favorite). Then back into town for East Mebon (952), Neak Pean (1180-1190), and Preah Khan (1191).

The next day, I revisited Angkor Thom because the crowds were so dense the first time I went to Bayon. Then another swing by Angkor Wat, with an end at the earliest temples: Bakong (881) the first temple built for the god-king, Lolei (893) created as new capital city, and lastly, Preah Ko.

Phew. I didn't even see them all.

The city of Siem Reap itself is pretty divided between locals and tourists, which bothered me. Most of the time though, I was too tired to even think about going out or exploring.

Well, I just crossed the border into Vietnam. On to Ho Chi Minh City!

Katie

Battambang Pictures

Battambang, Cambodia

Battambang is one of Cambodia's largest cities, but you wouldn't know it while visiting. It feels like a busy small town lacking an urban core. In fact, tuk tuk drivers make their living driving visitors to various sights at least 15km away.

As soon as my bus from Phnom Penh pulled into the station, swarms of men surrounded the door and starting shouting at various passengers. "Hello lady! Where are you going? You have tuk tuk? You have place to stay? I know a good place let me take you. Where you from? Hello lady? Come with me! Please! I know a good place to stay. You have reservation? Want to see Battambang? Want to see Killing Caves? You have tuk tuk lady?"

They stand strategically by the bag department of the bus so there's no escape. I randomly picked somebody, got a room and my things settled, and went off into the countryside.

The countryside is Battambang's main draw. The scenery through rural villages and farmland is stunning. Fields of green and brown rice paddies are broken up by palm trees and stilted houses. First I visited the "bamboo train." Colonial Cambodia used to have a train network stretching from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang and more. Years ago it was closed for repairs and villages were cut off from a basic supply line. To adapt, they slapped a bamboo platform on two wheeled axels driven by a small motor & belt system. Wa-la: a bamboo train now turned kitschy tourist attraction. I'll take it!

We hurtled down decades old metal tracks that twisted with the intense heat. Butterflies dodged in front and ducked away, playing in the currents. The wind swept the hot air from the neighboring fields into our faces; the sweltering breeze reminded me of the Los Angeles Santa Anas.

After about 7km we pulled over into a 'station,' or small village. Immediately children swarmed me with gift jewelry from palm leaves and numerous questions. I had the best time playing with them, and they taught me so much Khmer. I can now count to up to 10,000 and hold the basic what is your name/how are you conversation. I can't wait to bring these phrases to Cambodia Town in LB!

After the bamboo train I visited the killing caves. During the Khmer Rouge genocide (1975-1979) prisoners/civilians were struck on the head & tossed 30m into a cave to die. A neighboring temple was converted to a prison. Now the temple is being remade with beautiful paintings donated by visitors & buddhists as a place of hope. The cave has been opened up and two glass cabinets were installed to house some small portion of the bones recovered from the area.

A 17 year old kid acted as guide, explaining the site. It would take an essay to articulate my feelings, but something about this boy repeating this horrible history over and over again for a few bucks from tourists got to me. Once, he followed my gaze up to the opening of the cave and remarked, "it's very sad, isn't it?" I started to tear up. English, Khmer... No language can adequately sum up the tragedy - least of all with the phrase 'very sad.' It doesn't even come close, but that's all the boy had in his vocabulary to repeat over and over.

I ended the night with hope at a NGO run children's circus. These kids were absolutely fantastic, and it was the most fun I've had in an 'entertainment' setting for a long time. Tumbling, contortion, tight rope, juggling, dancing... All of it had me on the edge of my seat and wanting more.

The next morning I set off 11km by bicycle to visit a ruined temple from Angkor times. Kids absolutely adored seeing me pass by and I can't count how many times folks shouted "hello!" One group of boys on bicycles caught up to me and amused themselves by asking questions in English. "hello! What is your name? Where are you from? How old are you? Are you married? Where are you going?" Everytime I asked the question back though the little boy would blush and get nervous - so cute!

In the afternoon I went by motorbike back south to see another old ruined temple. After I explained to my driver (Bernie!) what I wanted, he took me through villages and farmland. We pulled over by a field on the riverbanks, where Bernie pointed out each crop. I saw chillies, pumpkins, watermelons, sweet potatoes, corn, morning glory (green vegetable), and to top it off, folks were spreading out a fishing net while we were there. So. Cool. Then a quick stop at Cambodia's only winery (California has nothing to worry about) and the temple!

Bed never felt so good.

Phew - A lot of words for this post. I'm having fun telling stories versus just updates. I hope y'all don't mind!

Lots of love from the land of Angkor,
Katie

Phnom Penh Pictures (S-21, Royal Palace, Strawberry Pepper Margarita)

Initial Experiences in Cambodia

A few days ago I crossed the border into Cambodia. First I stopped overnight in a riverside town called Kratie. As soon as I put my bags down, I hopped on the back of a scooter and headed 20km away to Kampi. There, I boarded a boat to watch the rare Irrawaddy river dolphin surface and play in the fading sunlight. Perfect.

Back in town, my waitress at the hostel restaurant asked to practice her English with me. We were having a good time until she starting complaining about how little money she made and asked me how much I made. She made sure to tell me that if I left a tip on the table the boss would take it, so I should hand money directly to her. I began to feel uncomfortable. Then a tuk tuk driver from Kampi recognized me as he walked by and sat at my table to chat & ask if I traveled alone. Nervous, I left and booked a ticket out the next day.

I don't mean to generalize, but I have felt a difference in how Laos and Cambodian folks treat tourists. Laos people had an almost endearing shyness to them, but warmed quickly when approached. Here folks are bold, both in asking questions and asking for money. I'm trying not to take it personally when a new 'friend' asks for money at the end, but it's hard to feel like a walking wallet.

Perhaps I let my guard down too much in Laos. In Thailand I immediately dismissed anyone that came up speaking English to me as a scammer, and it seems I need to resume that behavior. I've been approached by an orphanage owner wanting to take me to visit and another man that somehow had something in common with everything I said, and also wanted to take me away to visit his daughter ("she's moving to LA!"). It's funny how "don't go off with strangers" from childhood is advice I have to use again.

The worst may have been a pair of monks in Phnom Penh that I spoke with for over thirty minutes. We had a good time teaching each other English and Khmer, and he explained the history of the temple I sat in. Then he offered to show me the ancient stupa that held the eyebrow of a god. Once we were out of sight, he explained to me that people donate to monks and if I had a 'good feeling' I could donate too. I laughed nervously and asked where the donation box was for the temple. He shook his head and insisted I give him the money. After I fished out a dollar, he asked for money for his friend too. I shook my head and fled. I'm 90% sure Buddhist monks are not allowed to take money (just food) so I am not sure if they were fake or just crafty. Either way, lesson learned!

Thankfully in Battambang I have had much better luck with the locals, but that city deserves its own post. It was so much fun!

Anyway, more on Phnom Penh later. I plan to stay another night after Siem Reap to break up the trip to Ho Chi Minh City. While I was in Phnom Penh the leader of Myanmar was visiting, so the royal place and national museum were closed. I want to visit before leaving.

And now, Siem Reap & Angkor Wat. It's a horrendously hot time to visit and I'm almost out of sunscreen. Wish me luck!

Much love,

Katie

Don Khon of 4000 Islands

I could write so much about Don Khon.

I could write about my lovely new German friends that encouraged me to relax and eat well.

I could write about waking at dawn and cycling in chase of the sunrise.

About cycling with no destination and stumbling upon just waking villages with the scent of sticky rice in the air

About accidentally cycling to magnificent rapids and waterfalls... Then intentionally seeking waterfalls :)

About the oxen that blocked my path and moved when I rang my bicycle bell

About old French rail ports and craggy rocks shielding Cambodia

About children scaling bamboo rods and tree branches to toss down fruit... And who giggle at a white girl on a bike in their forest

About the Lao woman who told me not to marry young; that when she wants noodle soup, her husband wants rice and he always wins. She plans on getting that more expensive concrete house though no matter what he says!

About tying a tube to the guesthouse dock to float & read because I was too nervous about the Mekong's current

About fresh white fish steamed in bamboo leaves with coconut milk, lemongrass, & tomato (oh God so good).

About swinging in a hammock with a good book and a couple beer Laos

It was possibly a traveler's dream.

Today (while in Phnom Penh) I booked hundreds of dollars worth of four flights to squeeze in all I want to do in my last four weeks. The price tag hurts but the thought of missing Halong Bay or Thailand beaches hurts more! Plus an hour long plane ride sounds much more pleasant than a 14 hour bus ride, and now I know I will definitely make it back to Bangkok in time for my flight home. The rest of my itinerary is pretty much set, as much as I hate feeling so committed.

Next stops:
Battambang
Siem Reap (Angkok Wat)
Phnom Penh to get to Ho Chi Minh City
Da Nang
Hoi An
Hue
Hanoi
Halong Bay
Bangkok to get to Surat Thani (islands)
One full week of precious island/beach/relaxation time, probably on Ko Saumi and Ko Tao
Bangkok to get to Hong Kong to get to LOS ANGELES.

These advance plans were necessary because the New Year Holiday is April 13-15th and everything will be booked, which is why tickets were so expensive. Imagine being a foreigner absolutely needing to fly around Thanksgiving... Yeah, like that. Whoops.

Ok, I'm done pretending like I'm a reporter at the Foreign Correspondent's Club in Phnom Penh. I think they see through me...