(This is from my journal, with some updates after reviewing the maps. Disclaimer on the specific ruin names - I'm guessing based on pictures and maps, but welcome any corrections)
Day 3 Inca Trail 2:51pm
We have an hour free time between lunch and a short hike to the Inca ruin Winaywayna. I have been too exhausted to write each night and besides, I'm in a two person tent with both Chetsi & Megan. So for now, I've stolen away from the campsite. I walked on the trail until I thought I could see the mountains and write. Well as it happened, I could see the mountains from this spot until I sat down. My seat is one of the granite rock stairs that are my poor ankle's enemy. My neighbors are grasses, ferns, mosses... I spy vines extended toward me, kelp like ferns tumbling off the cliff face, and yellow algae smeared across the rocks like paint. Even without a perfect view of Salkantay ("The Savage") peak, it is a beautiful place to sit up in the cloud forest "high jungle."
Honestly, I haven't had as much time as I'd like to explore my surroundings. Each hike moves briskly along the path, and I must concentrate, hard, on each of the broken rocks beneath my feet. Anytime my mind wanders, my left ankle rolls in protest. No ruminating, no epiphanies on this trek: the rhythm of my labored breathing, quick footfalls and the frantic tapping of my trekking pole dominate my thoughts.
On the first day, I surprised myself. I kept at the heels of our guides, Hector and Miguel. 90% mental, I'd remind myself when my breath escaped me. Sure enough, right before I'd cry mercy, they'd stop us for a break. I began to believe, to trust in my own ability. I felt amazing at the end of the day. Then came day 2.
(Day 1 summary: 8 miles from 8923 ft to 10829 ft altitude gain. "Andean flat" terrain on mostly sandy paths and stones alongside rivers, trees and waterfalls. Saw the ruins Llactapata & (I think) Patawasi. Very warm during the day. Ate lunch at Wayllabamba & slept, freezing, at Ayapata).
Day 2 - Dead Woman's Pass
Not a very encouraging name, is it? Day 2 is arguably the hardest. We spent 11 hours making our way through two mountain passes. We climbed upward for five miles straight for dead woman's pass, and I really thought I'd die. The end - or should I say last 2ish miles? - was steep, uneven stairs raising us to 13779 ft at the pass. The altitude stole my breath. My fingers were numb from the cold for hours until suddenly, brilliantly, the sun burst from behind the mountain range. Then I sweat like a pig one slow step at a time until the top. We set out around 5am and I think I hit the top around 10:30am. Then we went down and up and down again. Oh my.
Even after getting within 20 minutes of the campsite, we dragged our tired bodies over to a gorgeous Inca ruin poised precariously on the mountainside. We had the site to ourselves at dusk as the clouds rolled in, lending the whole site a mysterious, tragic vibe. Incredible.
(Day 2 Summary: 7 miles from 10829ft to 13779 ft, then down to 11700ft for lunch, then up to 13123 ft for the second pass, and camp, freezing, at 11800 ft. Trail was all steep broken hundreds years old stairs alongside dry grasslands, grazing sheep & alpaca, and gorgeous views of Mt Veronica. Hung out in the ruins Runkuraqay, and explored Sayaqmarka at dusk. Lunch at Pacaymayu & camp at Chaquicocha).
Day 3. Today. Now.
We crested the third mountain pass and then hiked down down down, testing every muscle in my sore legs. But - we went through a cloud forest, the most remarkable mini ecosystem. Ferns, bromeliads, mosses & orchids are everywhere! It's so lush and different from the dry grasslands of Day 2. Now I sit on the cusp of an evening hike and - tomorrow - Machu Picchu.
Wow.
More to come.
(Day 3 Summary: 5 miles from 11800 ft to the pass at 12073 ft, then descending to a warm 8792 ft for camp. Trail was again steep broken stairs with some fun/scary short cave passages. Cloud forest scenery with many stops to learn about flora in the area. Lunch at Phuyupatamarca and camp at Winay Huayna. Sat on the terraces of Phuyupatamarca and enjoyed an evening hike to Winaywayna).
Katie
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